What a difference a day makes! Whereas yesterday was the worst weather day I’ve ever had, today was one of the best. Sunny, yet still crisp/not too hot, and no humidity. About as good as weather can be.

Backing up a moment, yesterday I spent the night at Hotel Bokaiso, at the top of the mountain next to Temple 84. Dinner was tasty sukiyaki with a view.

The next morning I ate a honey bun for breakfast, with hopes to have a late breakfast/early lunch at Udon Honjin Yamaha-Ya. But first, hiking!

Starting from the top of the mountain, it was a steep path down. One thing I love about hiking solo, with all day to make my way, is that I can take my time. Going down this steep and slippery path, I’m sure I’m slower than 99% of other hikers. And hiking with others, I just hate feeling like the weakest link, and I hate feeling pressure to go faster than I’d like. But alone, I can go whatever speed I wish.

I made my way to the famous udon spot for lunch. They open at ten, and there were warnings on their website about long lines. I arrived around 9:40, and indeed a line had already formed. I took my place and was seated right after they opened.

Quite delicious and I’m so glad I stopped. And I thought this neighborhood was particularly charming.

A bit further on I had to decide between hiking up the next mini-mountain or…taking the cable car. Guess which I chose!!!

Omg I love all forms of cable transportation: chair lift, funicular, ropeway, cable car.

So much fun! The car lets you off right next to temple 85.

Walking down the step slope, a car stopped to give me my first osettai. A super nice lady who gave me cherry tomatoes, mini-croissants, and Haribo.

Walking a bit more I heard some excited voices, welcoming me to my first Henro rest stop! The hosts welcomed me with green tea and a snack, and we had a nice chat about the pilgrimage. The host noticed that many of the foreigners hiking the pilgrimage are quite young. I asked another pilgrim what he thought about foreigners walking the pilgrimage. He said he thinks it’s good, and that Japanese people can be lonely. I enjoyed the company and snacks, and on my way out a lady gave me a cup full of the tiniest cherries I’ve ever seen (also very tasty).

More walking through charming but eerily quiet streets to temple 86. It was fun seeing a big group of pilgrims (and a monk) arrive just as I did. But I got bit by a bunch of mosquitoes here, so not much favorite temple.

From there, it was a pretty uneventful hike to tonight’s accommodation. Sleep well, everyone!